I did not think I had much to learn about fondue until I spoke to Joe Salonia, a FonDuel champion. This friendly annual competition among people in the cheese business—mostly retailers and distributors—is the Olympics of melted cheese, with the public invited to taste and judge the entries. FonDuel took a pandemic pause last year, but Salonia has earned first and second place finishes in the past. (The latter result, he assures me, was “very close.”) With Valentine’s Day looming, it seemed like a good time to get some tips from a master on a dish that’s meant to be shared.

Salonia is the U.S. sales rep for Gourmino, a Swiss cooperative that makes a range of exceptional cheeses, so he got mentored in fondue at the source.

“The biggest pointer was the lemon juice,” says Salonia. “It shortens the protein. You don’t want your fondue to imitate a Papa John’s commercial. You want it to twist and break, not be connected to 18 inches of stringy cheese.”

His winning recipe calls for four different cheeses, but not in equal proportions.

“I always put 25 percent Emmentaler in, no matter what,” says Salonia. Raclette contributes silkiness. Hornbacher —like Gruyère but more earthy—adds depth. If you want a funkier flavor, add some Appenzeller. Gruyère is never wrong.

“Gruyère is a workhorse,” says Salonia. “It’s like eating four cheeses at once. If you had to make fondue with only Gruyère, you’d be fine.”

Many Swiss are fans of the moitié-moitié fondue: equal parts Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois, a robust washed-rind cheese that smells like roasted peanuts. Vacherin Fribourgeois melts well at low temperature—a plus for fondue—and some consider it essential. In fact, about 70 percent of the production ends up in fondue. The cheese is not easy to find where I live, but igourmet has it.

As for his method, Salonia sticks to tradition, with a couple of twists. He doesn’t rub the pot with garlic, convinced that it doesn’t contribute much. Instead, he grates the garlic into the liquid for a more pungent flavor. But the thing that most intrigued me about his winning formula is that he uses dry apple or pear cider instead of white wine. Nice touch.

Salonia is a former chef so he flexes his creativity with the accompaniments. One year, for FonDuel, he made toppings of caramelized brussels sprout powder and powdered pork rinds. “I really gave it my all,” he says, but he thinks the innovation may have cost him some votes.

For dipping, go for color, Salonia suggests: purple potatoes, golden beets, rainbow carrots. And to drink? “I love it with something bubbly,” he says. “Crémant, cava or a funky cider.”

Personally, I like my fondue with mixed peppercorns (pink, black and green) on top and I do garlic-smear the pot. As for the cheese, I’m not tied to Switzerland. Consider these options if you can’t find what Salonia recommends:

• Beaufort

• Central Coast Creamery Holey Cow

• Comté

• Cowgirl Creamery Wagon Wheel

• Fontina Val d’Aosta

• Nicasio Valley San Geronimo

• Pleasant Ridge Reserve

• Roth Cellars Roth’s Private Reserve

• Spring Brook Farm Tarentaise

• Spring Brook Farm Reading

Joe Salonia’s Fondue

You’ll need a total of 1 pound of cheese after removing the rinds so buy a little extra. See above for some other suggestions.

• 7 ounces coarsely grated Gruyère

• 3 ounces coarsely grated Hornbacher

• 3 ounces coarsely grated Raclette

• 3 ounces coarsely grated Emmentaler

• 1 tablespoon cornstarch

• 1 cup dry pear or apple cider

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• ½ teaspoon fleur de sel

• 1 clove garlic

• 1 to 2 tablespoons kirsch

In a large bowl, combine the cheeses and the cornstarch and toss with your hands to distribute the cornstarch.

Heat the cider in your fondue pot until it just comes to a simmer. Add the lemon juice and salt. Grate the garlic into the pot. Begin adding the cheese a small handful at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon and adding more only when the previous addition has melted. Try to keep the temperature around 150°F. When all the cheese has melted, stir in the kirsch and serve.

Serves 4

Time for Cheese O’Clock!

It’s a cheese party! Please join me and fellow cheese expert Laura Werlin for Cheese O’Clock, a four-week series of you-are-almost-there virtual tastings. Zoom registration is free, but we encourage you to order each week’s unique cheese collection and wines to taste along with us and our featured guests.

“Cheese O'Clock outdid itself. The quality of the product was world class stunning and we loved the evening.”
Ray and Diane A.

“Thank you for sharing your knowledge and passion in such an engaging, accessible and magical way.”
Suzy F.

Thursday, February 18
“Europe Off the Beaten Path” with WillaKenzie Estate
All details here

Thursday, February 25 — ORDER CHEESE BY FEB 12!
“Italian All Stars” with Captûre Wines and Tenuta di Arceno
All details here

Thursday, March 4
“Wonder Women of American Cheese” with Cambria Winery
All details here

Thursday, March 11
“Aged to Perfection” with Galerie Wines
All details here