Mozzarella is a flavor sponge. It readily soaks up good stuff like extra virgin olive oil and garlic, so why not give it a little bath on Labor Day? Ciliegine, the cherry-size balls, are perfect for marinating. They’re bite sized, you can serve them whole so they don’t release whey, and it doesn’t take long to infuse them with seasonings. (Say chili-eh-GEE-neh.) I add dried oregano, parsley, Aleppo pepper and capers, but you do you. Taken to a potluck or at your own backyard barbecue, these juicy, garlicky one-bite wonders will vanish before the burgers are done.

While we’re on the subject, congratulations to Crave Brothers of Wisconsin for their first-place ribbon for mozzarella in this year’s American Cheese Society judging, and for celebrating 20 years as farmstead cheesemakers. There aren’t many American producers of farmstead mozzarella, meaning cheese made on a dairy farm from the farm’s own milk. See the other competition winners here.

Marinated Ciliegine

When tomato season ends, serve the marinated ciliegine on their own with toothpicks to go with drinks. Adapted from The Cheese Course by Janet Fletcher (Chronicle Books).

• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

• 1 large clove garlic, minced

• 1 teaspoon dried oregano or 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano

• ¼ teaspoon Aleppo chile or other chile flakes, or to taste

• 1 pound ciliegine-size mozzarella, well drained

• 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped

• 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

• Kosher or sea salt

• Tomatoes, preferably mixed colors

In a small saucepan, warm the olive oil, garlic, oregano and chile over medium-low heat until the garlic sizzles and just begins to color, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. Put the ciliegine in a bowl and cover with the seasoned oil. Add the capers and stir gently. Cover and let stand for 2 to 3 hours at room temperature, stirring occasionally. Just before serving, stir in the parsley and season with salt.

Arrange the ciliegine on a serving platter and surround with tomatoes. Spoon marinade over the mozzarella and the tomatoes.

Serves 6 to 8

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