Several years ago, a colleague came for dinner and brought me a seven-year-old cheese in a can. Do you say “thank you” for what seems like a gag gift? Was she suggesting that I might actually enjoy a cheese that’s packed in a tin like cheap tuna? Well, I did. And you will. If you want this uniquely American cheese for your Thanksgiving table, don’t delay. The shipping charge just dropped for most of the country, and the supply will sell out soon.
Read moreValue Proposition
We’ve all read about the soaring cost of shipping, both by sea and by air. Brace yourself for the inevitable price hikes on imported cheese. One retailer complained to me that he can barely keep up with the constant alterations he needs to make to his signage. Given these times, I was jubilant to find a favorite Spanish cheese recently at just over $20 a pound. Ironically, a few days later, I received a sample of a new American cheese retailing for $70 a pound. What can possibly explain such a price spread?
Read moreHow Old is Too Old?
When does quality peak in a cheese destined for long aging? I’ve had 10-year-old Cheddar (awesome), 4-year-old Parmigiano Reggiano (underwhelming) and a cheese that spent 7 years in a can. (More on that soon.) More recently, I had the opportunity to taste Gouda at four different ages, an enlightening example of what can happen to this iconic Dutch cheese over time. Online merchant igourmet is now carrying these extra-aged wheels so you can duplicate my tasting at home. I’ve served the four cheeses, side by side, to several people now and have been surprised by the reactions, including my own.
Read moreCheese for the Witching Hour
We have so few trick-or-treaters on my quiet street. We fill a bowl with candy and we’re lucky if the doorbell rings twice. This year, I’ll be waiting for the little gremlins and goblins while enjoying my own candy: a fat slice of Red Witch and a bottle of Dead Guy. This Swiss raw-milk cheese may sound like a gimmick, but it’s made by a master and it’s hauntingly good.
Read morePerfect Ploughman’s Lunch
I haven’t been in a pub in 18 months and am getting cranky about it. I want to sit at a counter and have someone serve me a beer. Maybe after my booster shot. In the meantime, I brought the pub to me. I had a nice wedge of Keen’s Cheddar (found it at Whole Foods) in the fridge and a fresh loaf of pain au levain. A neighbor had dropped off some heirloom eggs from her “girls.” And my husband’s latest batch of red onion pickles had cured the requisite week. I have no recollection of ever having had a ploughman’s lunch in a pub, but all the fixings were right in front of me.
Read moreYou Don’t Have to Choose
I’ve long thought of Grana Padano as the thrifty person’s grating cheese, lacking the stature or complexity of Parmigiano Reggiano. Then a cheese colleague told me he thought Grana Padano deserves more love than it gets. “I use it in any situation where most people would use Parmigiano Reggiano,” said Brian Keyser, owner of Casellula Cheese & Wine Café in New York City. “It’s great with just about any crisp, dry white wine.”
Read moreBiergarten at Home
f you’re surprised that a university press has published a book on beer cheese, you’re probably not from Kentucky. The Bluegrass State takes beer cheese seriously. I didn’t even know what this popular pub snack was until I interviewed the book’s author, Garin Pirnia. Pirnia isn’t from Kentucky either, but she embraced the spicy spread soon after moving there. “Whereas pimento cheese screams ‘the South,’ beer cheese symbolizes Kentucky,” wrote Pirnia in The Beer Cheese Book (University of Kentucky Press).
Read moreA Cheese Debut and a Retirement
It’s still summer and I’ve just seen my first holiday decorations. I guess people are anxious to make up for all the gatherings that didn’t happen last year. If you’re already thinking about autumn cheese boards and how to entertain holiday guests, serve this rising star and prove you’re an early adopter. A little bit stinky (but not too much) and extra buttery, this California newcomer makes a tasty segue to autumn.
Read moreFromages Without End
Who knows whether Charles de Gaulle really said, “How can you govern a country that makes 246 cheeses?” If he did, he was underestimating. I think I’ve had 246 French cheeses myself, and I’m still discovering new ones. Take a look at the seven beauties I served last week in my “France Off the Beaten Path” tasting and see how many you know. Two were new to me. And I have to say, the class favorite surprised me.
Read moreLet’s Do Lunch
Thank goodness my garden is churning out tomatoes because all I want for lunch these days is dakos. That’s the Cretan rendition of what Italians call bruschetta. In Crete they use rock-hard rusks, first softening them in water, then drenching them in olive oil and heaping them with grated tomato and feta. No wonder the Cretans live forever. In my view, this is just about the tastiest and most wholesome quick lunch you can make.
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