When I posted about cacio e pepe recently, I didn’t realize I was headed down a rabbit hole. I like this dish—pasta with pecorino romano and black pepper—but I’m not obsessed with it. Then I discovered someone who is. Her Instagram, cacioepepelove, has 6,600 followers and climbing. I took one look and couldn’t stop looking. Every day, a new cacio e pepe. Who was behind this funny, mouthwatering, passionate love letter to a pasta dish?
Jessica Roffe (above) works for the University of Maryland by day and curates her quirky page in the off hours. Initially, the 29-year-old posted images from her own dining adventures, but then the floodgates opened. The tantalizing bowls of cacio e pepe on her Instagram now come from restaurants and amateur cooks everywhere. Roffe is never judgmental, although she has firm opinions about the right way to prepare this tricky dish. (She made the version pictured above left.) Check out her own recipe on her Instagram stories for pointers. I spoke to her recently by phone.
Roffe. Sounds Italian.
I like to think I’m Italian but I’m not. I studied abroad in Florence for four months, but I think I had my first cacio e pepe in Siena. I went to this restaurant almost every night for two weeks. I became obsessed. I’m a picky eater, and cacio e pepe is really simple.
How did the Instagram start?
Cacio e pepe started blowing up in America, and I was looking to see if there were any Instagrams dedicated to it. I thought it would be a fun hobby. I’ve gotten really positive feedback. People message me and say, “Your page has made my life.”
Secret no more: Roma Sparita’s cacio e pepe
Most memorable cacio e pepe?
When I visited Rome, a friend took me to Roma Sparita. They serve cacio e pepe in a fried Parmigiano shell, and that was life changing. (She’s talking about frico, the lacy cheese crisps.) The restaurant was on “No Reservations,” Anthony Bourdain’s show, but he didn’t want the secret out, so he didn’t mention the restaurant’s name.
Any estimate of how many different versions of cacio e pepe you’ve eaten?
My husband would probably say too many. I’m trying to get all the D.C. places checked off my list.
Do you prefer to make it or to eat it in restaurants?
I’m a bit of a snob now. I know the right way to do it, so I’m very particular. A lot of places will put butter or oil in it, but it’s just three ingredients (pasta, pepper, cheese). Whole Foods came out with a cacio e pepe sauce in a jar and the first ingredient was cream. I thought, I’m not even gonna try this. There’s no cream in cacio e pepe. We got a pasta attachment for our KitchenAid, so we’ve been trying to make it at home on Friday nights.
How would you describe the perfect cacio e pepe?
It has just the right amount of creaminess, which comes only from the pecorino mixed with pasta water. It should have really fresh cracked pepper. It shouldn’t be watery—no liquid underneath. You have to use the right amount of pasta water to soak up the cheese.
And what’s the right pasta?
When I first had it, it was pici, like thick spaghetti or bucatini. But people make it with everything these days. I’ve seen it made with mafalde. At Left Bank, in New York, they use a curly pasta. I’ve been trying to go there.
Can you play around with the pepper? Green peppercorns? Pink peppercorns?
I got a recipe recently with four peppercorns and I do want to try that.
Any do’s and don’ts?
I crush the peppercorn with a mallet. A lot of people use Parmigiano Reggiano but it’s just supposed to have pecorino. It melts better. You have to put the cheese in gradually or it will clump. People get feisty on Instagram. The only negative comments I ever get are from Italians. The other day, I posted a cacio e pepe that had lemon in it, and somebody said, “Real cacio e pepe doesn’t have lemon,” and I’m like, I know, I’m just trying to show variety. People are very serious about this.
Any other crimes against cacio e pepe?
People don’t know how to pronounce it. (Say cotch-o eh peh peh.) That makes me laugh. A lot of people call it elevated mac and cheese but that’s another misconception. I’m not a fan of mac and cheese.
Have you been back to Rome for cacio e pepe?
I’m going back this summer, but I won’t have much time there. I have to pick one restaurant. I’ve been struggling, but I’ve got it down to two: Roscioli and Da Ottello.
What do you like to drink with it?
Red wine. Anything Italian is good.
How long can you keep this going?
I’ve been thinking about that. I try to post every two days, but we’ll see how long I can keep that up.
Cheese Class: Raw-Milk Cheese Showcase
Wednesday, April 15
Silverado Cooking School
Napa
5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.
Reserve
We’ll celebrate tradition in this class devoted to cheeses made exclusively with raw milk. For many purist cheesemakers, in the U.S. and abroad, working with full-flavored, unpasteurized milk is non-negotiable. Come taste some standouts.