Upcycling. It’s the word of the moment. Can we create something useful out of stuff we usually throw away? In the cheese business, whey is a headache. For every pound of cheese, a creamery has roughly nine pounds of whey to get rid of. Sometimes a neighboring farmer will feed it to livestock or spread it on fields. But solutions for whey fall far short of the need. What if, as one young entrepreneur proposed, you could distill it?
Emily Darchuk is a food scientist in Portland, Oregon, and a recent MBA grad who witnessed the whey-disposal problem firsthand when she worked with dairy clients. Her idea—to ferment the whey and distill it—went from a business plan to a business, and Wheyward Spirit, the aromatic outcome, debuted last fall.
A clear 80-proof beverage, Wheyward Spirit can be sipped neat, or over ice, or used in mixed drinks in place of vodka, gin or tequila. The company describes it as having a “vanilla cream” aroma but I don’t detect any dairy notes myself. To me, it resembles tequila or mezcal more than any other distilled spirit—a little smoky, earthy and herbaceous. The scent is intriguing and the flavor is smooth.
I spoke to Darchuk by phone about her product and its genesis. I’ve edited and condensed her replies for clarity.
Why whey?
Darchuk: The USDA estimates that half of it goes to waste. If you can convert it to alcohol, you’re taking something perishable and giving it long shelf life. The largest fraction is lactose. Some processors concentrate it and extract the protein. Some whey might go down the drain if the local municipality allows. Others spread it on fields or feed it to cows. But a large percentage leaves the food supply.
For me, it’s an opportunity to not just find a solution for whey but to highlight it—to create something that retained roots to its source and had an ag story.
Is there a precedent for distilling whey?
There are probably 10 or so alcohols made from whey around the world, but I’m the first trying to create a signature flavor from the whey base. That’s the big difference between vodka and what I’m doing. It’s a shame to strip out all that flavor.
Where is the whey coming from?
We’re currently working with a cheese producer in Northern California. It’s all cow’s milk. I haven’t actually looked at goat’s or sheep’s milk. That would be interesting.
Drinks companion: Sarah Scott’s Gougères
Is Cheddar whey different from Camembert whey…or not different enough to matter?
The whey doesn’t have to be from one particular type of cheese, and it helps people have an open mind if the product is not tied to a specific cheese. The whey just has to be as neutral and fresh as possible. I’ve fermented acid whey [from yogurt], but you get into some flavor shifts and yield issues.
Your favorite way to consume Wheyward Spirit?
I think it’s fantastic in a Martini, and it shows off its difference from vodka or gin. It adds a lot of complexity. I also love making Negronis with it. It really helps bridge the bitter and sweet in that drink. One of our signature drinks is the Waste Not Sour. It’s waste free, super sustainable and absolutely delicious. You can have the cocktail-lounge experience in your house.
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Currently, Wheyward Spirit is available online from Wheyward Spirit or from drizly.com. Sarah Scott’s gougères would make a great companion.