The news that Vella Cheese Company was closing, its business no longer viable, hit hard. We Californians consider this 94-year-old creamery as a bedrock part of our food culture, a producer that has always been there and always would be, representing our state’s cheesemaking prowess with its acclaimed Dry Jack. That cocoa-dusted wheel’s unique appearance and nutty flavor—not to mention its modest price—earned it critical accolades, numerous blue ribbons and a space at almost every serious cheese counter.