Now here’s a find: 36-month-old alpage Sbrinz from Gourmino, the celebrated Swiss affineur. The word “alpage” should get your attention. It means the cheese was made in the Alps during the brief summer grass season, not in a valley dairy with winter milk. Only 5 percent of Sbrinz production is alpage. In this case, the producer is a loner who lives on Alp Chüeneren year-round and makes his Sbrinz with raw milk from his brother’s herd. “I love the seclusion,” says cheesemaker Andreas Gut.