I’m one of those fortunate people who can eat everything (and pretty much do). But not surprisingly, I hear from a lot of folks who tell me cheese doesn’t agree with them, especially cow cheese. Many say that goat cheese presents no problems, so at least they don’t have to swear off dairy entirely. But eggplant parmigiana, pizza Margherita, baked rigatoni—for those classics, you need oozy mozzarella. And until recently, goat mozzarella was barely a thing. I know of one creamery in Wisconsin that makes it, and a California producer recently entered the niche. So if you’re a cow cheese avoider and want to make my baked rigatoni with fresh summer tomato sauce, you have options.