The calendar says summer is imminent (the weather says it’s here) and I’m already lightening up. More salads, more Muga rosé and definitely some fresher, lighter cheeses on the table. Mozzarella and burrata, of course, but what I really crave in summer is the lively, lemony tang of fresh goat cheese. Sometimes I warm it until it’s as soft as custard. Or I spiff it up it with fruity olive oil and chopped thyme or pink peppercorns. I recently found a new fresh goat cheese to love (it’s Italian) and reacquainted myself with another favorite from France that smells like a hillside in Provence.