If a truffled triple-cream cheese sounds like the right thing for Valentine’s Day, keep reading. I’m going to help you make one. Whether you use fresh black truffle (best) or truffle paste (second best), the result will make you a hero. The cheese pictured here was an impromptu gift from Ken Frank, chef-owner of La Toque in Napa—talk about being in the right place at the right time—and later the chef shared a video of how he made it.
Ken’s restaurant is elegant, pricey and, alas, not on my regular rotation. But I was testing recipes with him in La Toque’s kitchen for a book project recently, and we began talking about truffled cheeses. I knew that the restaurant offers a special menu every January with black truffles in every course. That’s how I got lucky. January was almost over and Ken had prepared too many truffled Mt. Tams. He made me take one.
Needless to say, La Toque’s deluxe version uses fresh hand-chopped black truffle, and you should do so if budget allows. But I’m persuaded that a high-quality truffle paste (La Rustichella is a respected brand) will yield results worthy of the occasion. Ken uses Mt. Tam or Brillat-Savarin. Délice de Bourgogne is another French triple-cream that could stand in for Mt. Tam. Cowgirl Creamery sells a Truffle Tam Home Kit, but it includes two cheeses.
You’ll want to apply the truffle treatment at least three days ahead to allow the scent to infuse. On Valentine’s Day, bring the cheese to room temperature for serving, and make sure the toasts are hot. If you have cheese left over, enjoy it the next day on top of polenta or stirred into risotto.
Cheese Class: Raw-Milk Cheese Showcase
Wednesday, April 15
Silverado Cooking School
Napa
5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.
Reserve
We’ll celebrate tradition in this class devoted to cheeses made exclusively with raw milk. For many purist cheesemakers, in the U.S. and abroad, working with full-flavored, unpasteurized milk is non-negotiable. Come taste some standouts.