This is the cheese of my childhood. What memories! The one-and-only choice for Mom’s mac and cheese, her whole cauliflower baked with cheese sauce and her oozy grilled cheese sandwiches (on Wonder Bread, no less). It’s so supple, and it melts like a dream. It was the only cheese in our fridge unless company was coming. On those occasions Mom traded up to Cracker Barrel. Artisan cheeses have come and gone, but this icon persists, celebrating a century in production in 2018. Sales were lagging until Covid but now are reportedly strong. You don’t need me to tell you this cheese should be a kitchen staple. Could so many Americans be wrong?
Just kidding, people. It’s April 1, after all. Alas, the preceding paragraph is true except for the implication that Velveeta is cheese. It is not. It’s a “pasteurized prepared cheese product,” according to the FDA. Growing up with it did me no harm and possibly set the stage for my eventual cheese awakening.
This first day of April is also the first night of Passover. To those who celebrate, happy holidays. You don’t have to be Jewish to love matzo brei, the Passover dish I crave most. Here’s my favorite (unconventional) way to make it.
Matzo Brei with Asparagus and Cheese
For me, the ideal matzo brei has some crusty, browned bits interspersed with creamy egg. Cook on medium-high if you want more crunchy parts or on medium-low if you prefer the dish softer and creamier.
6 asparagus spears
3 sheets of matzo
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish
Scant 1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 green onions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced
2/3 cup (about 2 ounces) grated cheese, such as Point Reyes Toma, Cheddar or other good melting cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Bend the asparagus spears in both hands until they snap at the point where the spears become tough; discard the tough ends. Remove the pretty tips, then slice the remainder on the diagonal about ½ inch wide. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and prepare an ice bath. Boil the asparagus for 2 minutes, then drain and immediately chill in the ice water. Drain again and pat dry.
Bring a tea kettle of water to a boil. Break the matzo into smaller pieces, roughly 12 pieces per sheet. They don’t need to be identical. Put them in a sieve set over the sink. Slowly pour the boiling water over the matzo, tossing the pieces with a spatula until they are all well moistened. Let stand for about 5 minutes.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the dill, salt and pepper. Whisk in the green onions, the asparagus and the cheese. Stir in the softened matzo and toss with a spatula until it absorbs all or most of the egg and all the ingredients are well distributed.
Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter and swirl to coat. When the butter foams and begins to smell nutty, add the egg mixture, spreading it evenly. Let it cook without stirring for about 30 seconds so it browns on the bottom, then flip the mixture and begin to break it up with a spatula. Lower the heat if necessary to prevent over-browning. Cook as you would for scrambled eggs, stirring and flipping until all the egg is cooked to your taste. Divide among 2 plates, garnish with chopped dill and serve immediately.
Serves 2 generously