If this year’s California grape harvest isn’t the earliest on record, it’s close. In Napa Valley, where I live, the sparkling wine houses are full speed ahead, and even the still-wine producers are harvesting. Red table grapes are at their annual peak—juicy, crunchy and impossibly sweet. I picked up a bunch last week for a focaccia recipe I hadn’t made in years. Dusted with coarse sparkling sugar and aniseed (if you like), grape focaccia will be the star of your cheese board.