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It’s not like we have a real winter in Napa Valley, but still I cook like we do. Hearty soups, more braises, more chilies. Our West Coast Dungeness crab is in season but it’s such a luxury that I look for recipes that stretch it, like crunchy Crab and Avocado Tostadas. I love creamy vegetable soups that contain no cream; Cauliflower and Fennel Soup has a velvety texture from the blended vegetables alone. When it comes to winter greens, broccoli rabe is first among equals for me. I pair it with whole-wheat pasta and chili oil for a one-dish meal. (Well, maybe a cheese course to follow.) The Focaccia Bread Pudding I made for Thanksgiving was such a hit that I know I’ll make it again before spring; serve it with a salad for a meatless dinner. Navel oranges arrive at my farmers’ market in December and just get sweeter by the week. I use the grated zest in a tender Almond, Orange and Olive Oil Cake—as good with dessert wine as it is with my mid-morning coffee break.

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