Let’s get this year underway with a delicious discovery—a sheep cheese that left me hunting for superlatives. Aged sheep cheeses are always my go-to on a cheese board, but this newcomer gobsmacked me. It had a warm butter aroma and distinctive sour cream flavor that just reeled me in. Don’t leave me alone with it. It’s 100 percent perfect by itself, in my view, but you could pair it with olives and salumi for an antipasto or serve it at the end of your meal with quince paste or poached quince.
The producer is Caseificio Storico Amatrice, a multi-generational family business in the village of Amatrice (as in spaghetti all’Amatriciana), not far from Rome. Amatrice was devastated in an earthquake in 2016, but the creamery has been rebuilt. They make a wide variety of sheep cheeses, from fresh ricotta to pecorino romano, but the cheese that won me over (pictured above) is Fiocco Amatriciano. Fiocco means “flake,” like a snowflake, and likely refers to the friable texture of this five-month-old cave-aged wheel.
Powered by pecorino: Petrucci family members
Fiocco Amatriciano is not dry like pecorino romano. It is moist enough to slice without crumbling, but just barely. The texture is firm yet tender, but what most captivates me is its crème fraîche aroma and the lemony, buttery flavor—like lemon cheesecake. This is not a piquant, peppery pecorino; it’s sweet, gentle and snackable, a people pleaser.
Now for the bad news. The exclusive importer, Panorama International, is San Francisco based and distributes the cheese only in Northern California so far. Look for Fiocco Amatriciano at Bianchini’s Market (San Carlos and Portola Valley), Cheese Board (Berkeley), Molinari Delicatessen (San Francisco), Sigona’s Farmers Market (multiple Peninsula locations), United Market (San Anselmo and San Rafael) and V. Sattui (St. Helena). Panorama owner Franco Gallo is eager to sell more, so ask your favorite retailer about acquiring it. With enough demand, we might potentially see broader distribution for this cheese.
In the meantime, pick up a Pecorino Toscano Stagionato (stagionato means aged) at any good cheese counter for a similar, if not identical, taste experience. Il Fiorino’s Cacio di Caterina, an 8-month-old wheel, is superb. Pecorino Calabrese and Pecorino Sardo (from Sardinia) also deliver mouth-filling flavor; even Fiore Sardo, which used to be too salty and smoky for me, has been toned down by modern producers and can be mellow enough to love. Try to purchase from a counter where you can sample before you buy so you’re certain of getting an aged pecorino that meets your taste.
Poached Quince with Cardamom
Serve with aged sheep cheese or enjoy for breakfast with plain yogurt. Adapted from The Cheese Course by Janet Fletcher (Chronicle Books).
2 quince (about 1 pound)
¾ cup sugar
3 whole green cardamom pods, smacked lightly to crack them
2 cups water
½ lemon
Peel, quarter and core the quince. Cut each quarter into 4 slices. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, cardamom and water. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the quince, cover and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the slices are tender and rosy pink, about 2 hours, basting with the poaching syrup occasionally. Let quince cool in the liquid, cover and refrigerate. Before serving, add lemon juice to taste.
Serves 8