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Janet Fletcher

180 Stonecrest Dr
Napa, CA, 94558
(707) 265-0404
{ Janet Fletcher / Food Writer }

{ Janet Fletcher / Food Writer }

Janet Fletcher

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Year in Review: Cheese Edition

December 29, 2025 janet@janetfletcher.com
Harbison by Jasper Hill Creamery

Limited edition: Jasper Hill Harbison washed with Champagne

Some good things happened for cheese lovers this year, and some not so good. But isn’t that the way every year unfolds? As I think back on the past 12 months, I find much to celebrate, but I also see some gathering clouds. Are we cheese enthusiasts in a better place today than same time last year—with more access to fine cheese and more stability for dairy farmers, cheesemakers and retailers? Let’s start with the wins before we get to the losses.

Champion for cheese: Emilia d’Albero

Girl power: What a thrill to see Emilia d’Albero on the winner’s podium at Mondial du Fromage in France last fall. It’s the first time a U.S. cheesemonger has ever prevailed in this international competition, known informally as the Cheese Olympics. Adding to American bragging rights, the other member of Team USA, Courtney Johnson, placed third.

ACS Best of show

Canadian victor: 2025 ACS Best of Show

Canada on top: I think a lot of people were gratified to see Canada win Best of Show at this year’s American Cheese Society judging—for the second year in a row. It doesn’t compensate for the rough patch in our relations with our northern neighbor, but maybe U.S. distributors will work harder to get some of these winning cheeses across the border. In fact, that’s already happening. Alfred Le Fermier, the Best of Show, has some modest distribution here, as does the lovely Brie Paysan from Quebec’s Fromagerie du Presbytère. Hoping for more.

Changing hands: Great news that ownership of Venissimo Cheese, a top California retailer with multiple San Diego-area locations, has transferred smoothly from its retiring founder to a veteran employee. Let’s hear it for succession planning.

Back from the brink: After announcing the imminent closing of Artisan Cheese Company, her Sarasota, Florida, shop, proprietor Louise Converse witnessed a miracle. Her customers rallied with so much support (from a GoFundMe campaign and an angel investor) that Converse has been able to keep the doors open.

Cheese on the brain: Researchers in Sweden recently published the results of a large study showing that consumption of high-fat cheese was associated with a lower risk of dementia. I don’t eat cheese for my health but it’s encouraging to see scientific support for what I was going to do anyway.

As for last year’s unwelcome developments, these are top of mind:

Tariff toll: Is there a silver lining here? I see only higher prices and more pain and uncertainty for producers, importers, distributors, retailers and consumers. Not to mention the sour vibes between the U.S. and Europe. One leading retailer told me in an email, “My reaction to Swiss cheese prices was not to buy any.”

Adieu to these shops: Paste & Rind in Washington, DC, announced it is closing at the end of this year, as is Oxbow Wine and Cheese Merchant in Napa. We also lost the Cheese Shop of Salem (MA) and Curds & Co in Brookline (MA). Another California retailer recently told me she was “frankly very worried” for her shop. If you value the independent cheese stores in your community, then shop there.

Mary Matos | Photo: Sue Conley

Creamery closures: We said sayonara this year to Joe Matos Cheese Factory and Bohemian Creamery in California and to Grey Barn in Massachusetts. The owners of Briar Rose Creamery in Oregon, producers of the Butterbloom cheese that I lauded in last week’s post, just announced they are seeking a buyer.

Brad Sinko

Brad Sinko

Farewell to a Cheddar master: Face Rock Creamery cheesemaker Brad Sinko passed away this year after a long battle with cancer. Sinko developed the recipe for the distinctive Cheddars for Beecher’s Handmade Cheese in Seattle, helping launch that brand, then went on to do the same at Face Rock in Oregon. His Face Rock Clothbound Cheddar is among my favorites.

Dairy farm decline: The stats are sobering and hard to believe. We’ve lost 95 percent of the U.S. dairy farms we had in 1970. Just this year, according to The Bullvine another 2,800 farms folded. That’s about 8 percent of the dairy farms we have left, and the trend line is not expected to change. Which doesn’t mean we’ll run out of milk. Dairy farms are just getting bigger—vastly bigger. The 300-cow farm that used to support a Wisconsin family is pretty much a thing of the past.

Even so, I’m thinking positive and feeling thankful. First, to all those who helped make this year’s World Cheese Tour classes a sellout. (There’s still room in most 2026 classes.) I’m also grateful to all the wineries, corporate groups, organizations and families who engaged me to boost their cheese IQ this year. I led tastings for a club of wine-loving physicians, for a reunion of sorority sisters and for an extended family just looking for something fun to do together. Most of all, thank you for reading and sharing Planet Cheese. Here’s wishing good health and prosperity to all my readers in the year ahead.

Tags Emilia d’Albero, Alfred Le Fermier, Brie Paysan, Venissimo, Artisan Cheese Company, cheese and dementia, Swiss tariffs, Face Rock Creamery
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