If I had encountered this cheese earlier, I would have included it in my recent post on favorite double- and triple-cream cheeses. But this little dreamboat is new to the U.S. and we have only just met. It tastes like a hit. From a blend of cow, sheep and goat milk—plus cream for added plushness—it’s a double-cream cheese by the numbers but comes across as featherlight. How do they do that? The Italian producer specializes in soft and semisoft mixed-milk cheeses and I’m betting you know a lot of them already. This newcomer is currently exported only to the U.S.— grazie! – so let’s show it some love.
You’ll recognize Caseificio dell’Alta Langa’s cheeses even if you don’t know the creamery name. They make Bosina, Rocchetta, Brunet and the wildly successful La Tur. The newbie, pictured above, is Robiolina—a fresh, rindless robiola in a style familiar to cheese lovers in the Piemonte region but rarely seen here. At roughly 3 ounces, it’s right-sized for Valentine’s Day.
What makes Robiolina a candidate for export is modified-atmosphere packaging. Without it, this days-old cheese would not last long enough for U.S. retailers to receive it and sell it. In its airtight tub, it has a 55-day life (even longer than La Tur). Even so, I would check the best-by date and purchase the youngest package you can find.
Light touch: Hand-ladling curds at Alta Langa
The relative proportion of cow, sheep and goat milk is top secret and can shift with the season. Alta Langa’s U.S. rep, Lucy Hoffman, says cow’s milk always dominates but the blend should be seamless. “Each contributes something essential: sweetness from the cow, richness from the sheep, and a little lactic lift from the goat,” says Hoffman.
The three milks are mixed, pasteurized and inoculated with a proprietary culture produced in house. Fermentation takes three days, a glacial speed in cheesemaking (time is money), but the slow going allows for flavor development and minimal use of rennet. On day four, the curd is hand-ladled into forms, drained and salted. It goes out the door on day five, a rindless three-ounce disk set in a paper doily and ready to board a plane.
What I love most about Alta Langa’s Robiolina is the texture. It is moist and quivery, like custard, and so fluffy—like the lightest cream cheese you’ll ever meet. The aroma is subtle—fresh and milky—and the flavor is gentle yet rich, much more engaging than a tart fresh chèvre.
I sprinkled cracked peppercorns and a few drops of extra virgin olive oil on top, but I can’t wait to put Robiolina to work in my kitchen. I’ll be stirring it into mushroom risotto and pesto, pairing it with roasted peppers this summer and slathering it on bruschetta with cooked greens. The creamery suggests drizzling it with honey for dessert.
The list of retailers for this cheese will surely grow, but for now look for it at the following cheese counters:
Cal-Mart Super (Calistoga)
Corti Brothers (Sacramento)
Devine Cheese & Wine (San Jose)
Jerome’s Carmel Valley Market (Carmel Valley)
Kroger/Murray’s (select stores)
Market Hall Foods (Oakland)
The Market St Croix (U.S. Virgin Islands)
Monsieur Marcel (Los Angeles)
Mullahy’s (Hudson, MA)
Murray’s (New York City)
Oh La Vache (Long Beach)
Petaluma Market (Petaluma)
Sip Snack (Los Angeles)
Star Market (Salinas)
Taylor’s Market (Sacramento)
Whole Foods Markets (launching nationally in March)
