What Tradition Tastes Like

September 5, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

El Abuelo Ruperto - sheep cheese from Murcia

It’s possible today to make commercial cheese that hands never touch. Milk is trucked to the plant and goes in one end of the production line and packaged cheese comes out the other. How dreary is that?

The cheeses I write about aren’t made like that, but they aren’t often made by old-time methods either—on a farm, from the raw milk of the family’s flock, with hands cutting the curd and flipping the wheels and humans making decisions at every step. The exceptional new Spanish cheese pictured above is an example of the distinction a cheese can achieve when made the hands-on, purist way.

Welcome Back, Teleme!

August 29, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

Chill the Champagne. We have something to celebrate. Franklin Peluso has resumed making his incomparable Franklin’s Teleme after a five-year pause. Peluso lost his production space in late 2018 (landlord troubles), and for a long while I feared we would never see this California classic again. This third-generation cheesemaker is 78, after all, and entitled to throw in the towel given how many location leads failed to pan out. When he called me recently to tell me Teleme’s rebirth was imminent, I felt like kissing the phone. Even better, he told me that his son, Adam, was working alongside him, assuring a future for this one-of-a-kind cheese.

France’s Finest

August 22, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

The difference between good Brie and mediocre Brie is so vast that I tend to avoid the cheese entirely. Let’s face it: the best Brie is in France, where producers can use raw milk. Mediocre Brie is what you find at most supermarkets, made from pasteurized milk and dead on arrival. Why isn’t it more supple? Where’s the aroma? Believe me, with the Brie and Camembert pictured here you won’t be asking those questions. These two cheeses, from the same French creamery, demonstrate the heights possible with pasteurized milk. I would love to pit them side by side against their raw-milk counterparts because I’m convinced they would hold their own.

Can Cheese Be Sustainable?

August 15, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

Cheese and other dairy products are getting the evil eye these days from many corners. Some voices argue that we need to be eating a more plant-based diet, both for the sake of the planet and for our own sake. I don’t disagree. But I do believe that cheese—a nutritious food that has sustained pastoral cultures around the world for millennia—is compatible with a healthy and low-impact lifestyle. The dairy farmers I know prioritize their animals’ welfare (why wouldn’t they?) and they aren’t ducking environmental concerns. They are seeking solutions.

American Champion for British Cheeses

August 8, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

David Lockwood of Neal's Yard Dairy — Photo: Harry Darby

How did an American end up running a legendary British cheese retailer and exporter? Neal’s Yard Dairy selects, matures and sells some of the finest British and Irish cheeses, both internationally and in its own four London shops. Over four decades, founder Randolph Hodgson elevated the profile of these distinctive cheeses and helped many traditional cheesemakers survive. With Hodgson’s retirement, this esteemed British firm is now under the direction of David Lockwood (above), an American.

Hot Takes from Cheese Camp

July 31, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

Every year, I return from the American Cheese Society (ACS) conference with my brain spinning from all the conversations and ideas. I’m still trying to process everything I heard, observed and tasted at this packed three-day meeting, which a lot of attendees liken to summer camp. It’s certainly as fun as summer camp (if you’re a cheese nerd) but with less fresh air, more alcohol and way more food for thought. While I mentally unpack from the recent meeting in Des Moines, I wanted to share a few hot takes from the gathering, including a surprising statistic I heard about goat cheese.

Meet America’s Top Cheeses

July 24, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

As usual, the winners’ circle at the recent American Cheese Society awards included several repeat victors who almost always land ribbons. They’re just that good. A few new creameries won blue ribbons, but the top honors—the Best of Show and four runners-up—went to long-established producers. These five winners, from five states, had at least one common feature. “What struck me, standing on stage, was that it was all independent cheesemakers,” said Andy Hatch of Wisconsin’s Uplands Cheese. In an industry that constantly grapples with the meaning of “artisan cheese,” it is indeed worth noting that the five winning wheels are all made by hand.

Keep Your Eyes on These Five

July 18, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

The American Cheese Society’s 40th conference is underway this week in Des Moines, with nonstop tastings and educational sessions and—always a highlight—the awards ceremony for the competition winners. I’ll report next week on the victors, but I’m betting on five newish creameries, in particular, to bring home some ribbons. Four of the five have been making cheese for less than 10 years and the fifth is only a year older. With their consistently top-notch output, these newcomers give me hope for the future of American artisan cheesemaking.

U.S. Cheesemongers Vie for World Champion

July 11, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

Will an American be the next World Champion Cheesemonger? It could happen, although it never has. But this year is different. This year, a small army is working mightily to clinch the title for Team U.S.A. The U.S. has two entrants—Courtney Johnson from the Seattle area and Sam Rollins from Portland, Oregon—who will be competing against each other and against 14 mongers from other nations at the biannual contest in France in September.

Best Fresh Cheeses for Summer’s Dog Days

July 4, 2023 janet@janetfletcher.com

Whew, it’s been hot. And probably not for the last time this summer. Retailers are stocking up on mozzarella and burrata, of course, but I’m more tempted by other fresh cheeses—the creamy, fluffy, rindless types that I can slather on toast and top with roasted cherry tomatoes. Or sliced peaches. Or a flurry of snipped chives. Add a big salad and a cold brew and call it dinner. Maybe I’m just paying more attention, but it seems like there are more options in this fresh category than ever. I’ve chosen seven of my favorites that should carry you through the next heat wave and beyond.